what:
AOC
Northern Rhône, France
essentially 100% Syrah
where:
Petite Robert
468 Commonwealth Avenue
Boston
when:
midwinter
character:
There was a time, many years ago, when Crozes-Hermitage would have tried
to convince you of his merit by his name alone (that of a famous uncle,
on his mother’s side). But no longer. These days Crozes-Hermitage
is a bit older and quite a bit wiser, and therefore has—how shall
we say it?—little interest in the bullshitting-around of famous wine
names. And so rather than lead with his name, today’s Crozes leads
with his hometown; and the first glimpse of his deep-set complexion, the
first clap of his hearty handshake, the first smoky rasp of his eh bienvienue
mon ami assures you, before anything else, that this is every ounce
a man from the Rhône. Perhaps not the most powerful, nor the most
prestigious; but lively, rich, singular, and honest. So it goes (in the
world of wine as elsewhere) that of all people, it is the spoiled kid with
the famous name who has grown into that rare Rhone personage one seeks out
not for the finery of his connections, but for his familiarity, fraternity,
and friendship.
tastes like:
Riding your favorite dark-bay Hanoverian across a brilliant Austrian field
on a brisk and wholly invigorating winter afternoon.
pairs nicely with:
The first welcome home glass offered to an old friend one hasn’t seen
in years; the first post-arrival dinner enjoyed with an old friend one hasn’t
seen in years; the bottom of the very last we’re absolutely, ab-so-lutely
doing this again more often bottle of the night with an old friend
one hasn’t seen in years; Chicken “Coq au Vin” with Buttered
Noodles; Duck Confit and Grilled Sausage with Braised Cabbage; Tripes Provençale;
Petit Calf’s Liver Sautéed with Caramelised Onion and Bacon;
and Beef Short Rib Bourguignon with Roasted Potatoes; rather large wine
glasses; Le Misanthrope, ou l'Atrabilaire amoureux; any former
palace converted into a public museum; any former palace garden converted
into a public park, and any sentence beginning with the words, ‘Yes
I’d like to order a case of—’ and ending with the word,
‘—tonight.’