
Côte-Rôtie
what:
AOC
Northern Rhône, France
Syrah, blended with up to 20% Voigner
where:
Altwienerhof
Herklotzgasse 6
Vienna
when:
autumn
character:
Côte-Rôtie is the world’s greatest father-in-law.
Sturdy and silver-haired, a cashmere sweater beneath his
age-old herringbone jacket, he smells of bay rum aftershave,
has a soft smile, a firm handshake, and a rugged refinement
to his manner that only comes about through the careful
combination of time, experience, and class. The kind of
man who can fly fish with his son-in-law in the morning,
and waltz with his daughter-in-law in the evening. He is
the kind of man who has a detailed handicapping strategy
for a 20-horse field, and a well-considered position
on Chanel No. 5. The kind of man who can fix his own vintage
Jaguar, and hem his own suit pants. The kind of man who
is translating a 19th century Austrian memoir on horse breeding
into English, as a hobby. He is, quite simply, the father-in-law
you dream of having. The father-in-law that if you do not
have you are jealous of others for having. The kind of father-in-law
it is almost worth marrying someone for, just to have around
for the holidays.
tastes like:
Racing bay Hanovarians from your father-in-law’s stable,
through an open forest, on a brilliant autumn afternoon.
pairs nicely with:
Building a one-match fire, tying your own flies, and being
able to give an exemplary toast at a moment’s notice;
keeping a study, stocking one’s study with vintage
letter writing accessories, antique globes (for reference),
and equestrian paintings by George Stubbs, and any room
in a smoke-free house which nonetheless smells heavily of
cigars; Viennese beef Tafelspitz with root vegetables, roasted
potatoes, and apple-horseradish sauce; an afternoon sunny
enough to be outside but cool enough to warrant a sweater,
the decision to open a bottle of red in the afternoon, and
drinking out-of-doors in October, in general; Livard, Affidelice,
any compromising photograph your father-in-law would appreciate
that you would just as soon your mother-in-law not see,
any joke your father-in-law would love that you would just
as soon your mother-in-law not hear, any problem your father-in-law
can solve that you would just as soon your mother-in-law
not know about, and Pié d'angloys with preserved
figs.