Côte-Rôtie


what:
AOC
Northern Rhône, France
Syrah, blended with up to 20% Voigner

where:

Altwienerhof
Herklotzgasse 6
Vienna

when:
autumn

character:

Côte-Rôtie is the world’s greatest father-in-law. Sturdy and silver-haired, a cashmere sweater beneath his age-old herringbone jacket, he smells of bay rum aftershave, has a soft smile, a firm handshake, and a rugged refinement to his manner that only comes about through the careful combination of time, experience, and class. The kind of man who can fly fish with his son-in-law in the morning, and waltz with his daughter-in-law in the evening. He is the kind of man who has a detailed handicapping strategy for a 20-horse field, and a well-considered position on Chanel No. 5. The kind of man who can fix his own vintage Jaguar, and hem his own suit pants. The kind of man who is translating a 19th century Austrian memoir on horse breeding into English, as a hobby. He is, quite simply, the father-in-law you dream of having. The father-in-law that if you do not have you are jealous of others for having. The kind of father-in-law it is almost worth marrying someone for, just to have around for the holidays.


tastes like:


Racing bay Hanovarians from your father-in-law’s stable, through an open forest, on a brilliant autumn afternoon.


pairs nicely with:


Building a one-match fire, tying your own flies, and being able to give an exemplary toast at a moment’s notice; keeping a study, stocking one’s study with vintage letter writing accessories, antique globes (for reference), and equestrian paintings by George Stubbs, and any room in a smoke-free house which nonetheless smells heavily of cigars; Viennese beef Tafelspitz with root vegetables, roasted potatoes, and apple-horseradish sauce; an afternoon sunny enough to be outside but cool enough to warrant a sweater, the decision to open a bottle of red in the afternoon, and drinking out-of-doors in October, in general; Livard, Affidelice, any compromising photograph your father-in-law would appreciate that you would just as soon your mother-in-law not see, any joke your father-in-law would love that you would just as soon your mother-in-law not hear, any problem your father-in-law can solve that you would just as soon your mother-in-law not know about, and Pié d'angloys with preserved figs.