
what:
AOC
Northern Rhône, France
100% Syrah
where:
Gene & Georgetti’s
500 North Franklin
Chicago
when:
midwinter
character:
Cornas is the outsized country cousin of the Rhône: the farmer,
carpenter, horseman, and general contractor of the family. A wide, brawny
man with a heavy step and booming laugh. A man in a rough shirt, no jacket,
with his sleeves rolled up. A man who comes to dinner with stains on his
hands and dirt beneath his fingers, and the pervading smell of tobacco
about his person. A man who pursues a debate by way of volume rather than
reason. A man who built the house you are invited into, trained the horse
you rode in on, farmed the grilled vegetables now simmering on the enormous
farmhouse table that he constructed, and both raised and brought home
the game he has roasted and now serves as dinner for the entire family.
A man, that is, whose handshake leaves a mark.
tastes like:
Driving a team of Clydesdales.
pairs nicely with:
The kind of winter nights where the cold sets into your bones, the kind
of fireplace one can walk into with room to spare, and the roaring through-the-night
fires made within; gigot d’agneau, cote de boeuf,
and any slightly undercooked beef accompanied by a rich bourguignon
sauce; ten years or so of wine cellar dust, a decanter, wine glasses that
may easily be classified as ‘goblets,’ and the phrase, ‘you
know my trouble with most wines is that they just aren’t tannic
enough’; most wild game including boar, venison, partridge, pheasant,
and woodcock; Courbet’s The Stone Breakers, Millet’s
The Sower, and most Turner seascapes involving something having
been set on fire; Roquefort, Bresse Bleu, Tomme, St-Marcellin, the sweet-soreness
that comes after a day of hard physical labor, and a nice strong Picodon.