what:
AOC
Southern Rhône, France
Grenache, Syrah, Mouvèdre,
and up to ten others
where:
Belcourt
84 East 4th Street
New York
when:
midwinter
character:
Tall, broad-shouldered, and impeccably groomed, Châteauneuf-du-Pape
enters a room with presence. Instantly recognizable for the regal insignia
(two keys crossed) embroidered in gold on his breast pocket, he may at times
bear traces of age across his dark complexion, and traces of silver through
his dark hair; yet rather than wear him away, these touches somehow soften
and add a pleasing elegance to his otherwise imposing bearing. For this
is a man who has aged extraordinarily well. And in his presence there are
silent nods, and bows, and here and there a fortunate handshake is gracefully
given and gratefully received. At the end of the room he stops before one
lady in particular, introduces himself, and the entire room stares and wonders
how such an enormous figure can bow with such singular grace, and how such
a enormous voice can say enchantè, with such singular charm.
tastes like:
Riding a large but exquisitely trained Westphalian at a full gallop across
the dawn of a brisk winter morning.
pairs nicely with:
The ceiling of the Sistine Chapel, the Vierzehnheiligen basilica, wine shop
display cases, wine cellars, and ten or twenty years of wine cellar dust;
Titian’s equestrian portrait of Charles V, Philippe de Champaigne’s
portrait of Cardinal Richelieu, and table settings involving antique George
III sterling silver wine coasters; pan roasted Crescent duck breast with
roasted sun chokes, orange zest, chilies and star anise, grilled hanger
steak with wine battered fried scallions and bone marrow sauce or marjoram
butter, and slow roasted pork belly with sautéed baby bok choy, toasted
anise seeds and shallots; Veronese's The Battle of Lepanto, Giovanni
Battista Tiepolo’s Allegory of the Planets and Continents,
Titian’s Assunta, and handwritten lists headed with the title:
‘Gifts for Pscott.’