what:
AOC
Champagne, France
cuvée from blend of Chardonnay, Pinot Noir, and Pinot Meunier
second fermentation using méthode champenoise
where:
Eastern Standard
528 Commonwealth Avenue
Boston
when:
toujours
character:
The magic of champagne is that it has not one character, but two, perfectly
intertwined. Like a dance. The wine leads; crisp, technical, fastidious,
immensely talented, it is Fred Astaire in white tie. And in his arms, there
is Ginger Rogers—bright, curvaceous, overtly sensual—the very
sparkle herself. Neither is overly impressive on their own. He, for all
his aristocratic grace, is always a trifle (or more) too dry. She, for all
her evident charms, is always a bit chatty, a bit capricious, and at least
by comparison a bit undisciplined. But together… Together they are
magic. He holds her up; and she makes him swing. He gives her structure;
and she gives him bounce. He gives them substance; and she gives them style.
Each of their dances together (each version and each vintage) is to a slightly
different tune, at a slightly different rhythm, and therefore will have
a slightly different appeal. But they are always themselves. They are always
ensemble. They are always that indefinable, ineffable, and ultimately
irresistible blend of class and sex that is the very meaning of glamour.
tastes like:
Fred Astaire in white tie and Ginger Rogers in white silk, dancing to Irving
Berlin.
pairs nicely with:
Allegro piano pieces by Bach, any very skilled production of Love’s
Labours Lost, and Hip Hip Hurrah by Krøyer; proposals
of marriage, engagement parties, wedding rehearsals, wedding receptions,
wedding anniversaries, and Tuesday evenings in March with nothing particular
to celebrate other than a chilled bottle of champagne, someone to share
it with, and a keen desire to make the most of this one Tuesday evening
in March; oysters, ceviche, many, many cheeses (but particularly brie, chèvre,
and gouda); and any toast, at any time, in any place, to any thing person
idea or event, of any nature, small or large, personal or public, sacred
or profane, reputable or disreputable, youthful or retiring, following a
grand oratory or a simple nod, followed by roaring huzzahs or a single clink
of two glasses, and done with any Champagne, vintage or non-, under any
domain or none at all, at any price and of any quality, so long as it is
done with joy.