
Chambolle-Musigny
what:
AOC
Côte de Nuits
Burgundy,
France
100% Pinot Noir
where:
Brasserie Mollard
115 Rue Saint-Lazare
Paris
when:
late summer
character:
The vast majority of red Burgundy is masculine in character—forward,
powerful, stubborn—but there are still a few Grande
Dames along the Cote d’Or, and perhaps none grander
than Chambolle-Musigny, the Ella Fitzgerald of Burgundy
reds. In her emmense talent we find the balance, the depth,
the same perfect pitch of all great Burgundian artists;
but to all this she adds something more—a fragrant,
nearly ethereal femininity. It is that note in particular,
that note of irrepressible loveliness, upon which
her ability to charm us is based, and with it the ease in
which she sends us for another bottle and another turn on
the record again and again. Which is perhaps why to many
her version of the familiar Burgundian tune will forever
be (nevermind the boys) the Standard.
tastes like:
“Let’s Do It (Let’s Fall in Love)”
by Ella Fitzgerald.
pairs nicely with:
A penchant for laughing out loud, an involuntrary
habit of singing selections from the Great American Songbook
in public, and a fundamental inability to think about much
less sing the blues; Salade Saint-Lazare; the look of gently
used album covers, the sound of jazz standards on vinyl,
and anything at all written by Cole Porter and sung by Ella
Fitzgerald; Raie au Beurre Noisette et Câpres; impeccable
dictation, pitch-perfect tone, and the kind of woman who
can make impeccable diction and pitch-perfect tone seem
sexy; Chateaubriand Grillé Sauce Béarnaise;
most MGM movies between 1929 and 1941, particularly those
in which the words ‘Greta,’ ‘Garbo,’
or ‘Gowns by Adrian’ appear in the opening credits;
Epoisses, Fromagerie Gaugry, Bouton de Culotte, and being
able to smell someone’s perfume on your clothes long,
long after you’ve said goodnight.