
Chablis
what:
AOC
Chablis
Burgundy,
France
100% Chardonnay
where:
La Renaissance
112 Rue Championnet
Paris
when:
midsummer
character:
The Katharine Hepburn of wines—Chablis is crisp, austere, precise,
almost supernally talented; and yet never without a slightly nervy quality
right beneath the surface that lends it both complexity and a lively
brace of intrigue. Utterly inimitable, with very few peers, there is
nothing in the world quite like her. And (unlike so many of her peers)
she only gets better with age.
tastes like:
Nervous laughter.
pairs nicely with:
Your more caffeinated Bach cantatas, (Massenet’s) Manon,
and most Mozart; the bridal brunch, the bridal shower, the baby shower,
or any other occasion where women gather under the auspice of celebration
but not without an undercurrent of barely concealed competitive tension;
any production of As You Like It in which Rosalind’s
performance is described as ‘manic,’ relaxing into an Adirondack
chair overlooking the Atlantic after walking out of your summer job
on Nantucket (on the first day) (within the first hour) (because the
uniform did not suit your coloring), Quiberon Fine de Bretagne,
Salade de haricots verts frais avec mimosa à l’estragon,
Escargots du bocage vendéen farcis en coquilles, a pleasant
and sunny laughter-filled luncheon with a friend about whom you recently
discovered a scandalous little secret, and oysters.