
Cerasuolo di Vittoria
what:
DOCG, Sicily
made from blend of Nero d'Avola
(also known as Calabrese) and Frappato
where:
Grill 23 & Bar
161 Berkeley Street
Boston
when:
St-Martin's Summer
character:
Cerasuolo is the Italian uncle you really want
to have around the Thanksgiving table. Light-hearted and
bright-eyed no matter his age, he loves his plate and the
sound of his own voice in equal parts, and only stops talking
long enough to ask if you mind passing the potatoes. No
one knows quite what he’ll say, mind you, or where
that story about the blind Moroccan nurse is headed, but
then again that’s the fun of it. Maybe he’ll
tell a joke that will cause your date to cough and your
mother to apologize for his behavior? Maybe he’ll
accuse your father of stealing $50 from him in 1974? Maybe
he’ll tell a story about his Sicilian grandmother
that will end in both unintelligible Italian and tears.
And maybe he’ll wipe away his tears and recall a story
said grandmother used to tell that will cause your mother
to leave the table and your date to leave you. Still, he
will keep things lively, Uncle Cerasuolo, and while your
date looks at you disappointingly and your mother slams
a distant door he will only smile and extend an empty plate
with I’ll have a little bit more of that there
you go grazie now where was I?
tastes like:
The moment your Thanksgiving Dinner officially turns into
a good story.
pairs nicely with:
A home kitchen during the afternoon preparation of any big
family meal, any kitchen where at least three generations
are present, and any kitchen where as much food is being
eaten during the preparation of the meal as will be served
during the meal itself; Squash Soup with Pumpkin Seed Oil,
Hazelnuts, and Sichuan Spices; heirloom silver candle sticks,
antique silver napkin rings, and noticing that your sister
is using a different table runner than the one you gave
her last Christmas specifically for big family dinners such
as this, not that you mind; Roasted Local Turkey Breast
with Sage and American Chestnut Stuffing, Roasted Onion,
and Kale; any sentence that begin with the phrase, this
may not exactly be politically correct to say, but…,
any sentence that begin with the phrase, this probably
isn’t appropriate for the dinner table, but…,
and any joke one has to wait until certain family members
leave the table before telling; homemade pumpkin, apple,
and pecan pies, any plate that features two or more slices
of said pie, and napping on your mother’s couch, in
general.