Cerasuolo di Vittoria


what:
DOCG, Sicily
made from blend of Nero d'Avola
(also known as Calabrese) and Frappato


where:

Grill 23 & Bar
161 Berkeley Street
Boston

when:
St-Martin's Summer

character:

Cerasuolo is the Italian uncle you really want to have around the Thanksgiving table. Light-hearted and bright-eyed no matter his age, he loves his plate and the sound of his own voice in equal parts, and only stops talking long enough to ask if you mind passing the potatoes. No one knows quite what he’ll say, mind you, or where that story about the blind Moroccan nurse is headed, but then again that’s the fun of it. Maybe he’ll tell a joke that will cause your date to cough and your mother to apologize for his behavior? Maybe he’ll accuse your father of stealing $50 from him in 1974? Maybe he’ll tell a story about his Sicilian grandmother that will end in both unintelligible Italian and tears. And maybe he’ll wipe away his tears and recall a story said grandmother used to tell that will cause your mother to leave the table and your date to leave you. Still, he will keep things lively, Uncle Cerasuolo, and while your date looks at you disappointingly and your mother slams a distant door he will only smile and extend an empty plate with I’ll have a little bit more of that there you go grazie now where was I?


tastes like:


The moment your Thanksgiving Dinner officially turns into a good story.


pairs nicely with:


A home kitchen during the afternoon preparation of any big family meal, any kitchen where at least three generations are present, and any kitchen where as much food is being eaten during the preparation of the meal as will be served during the meal itself; Squash Soup with Pumpkin Seed Oil, Hazelnuts, and Sichuan Spices; heirloom silver candle sticks, antique silver napkin rings, and noticing that your sister is using a different table runner than the one you gave her last Christmas specifically for big family dinners such as this, not that you mind; Roasted Local Turkey Breast with Sage and American Chestnut Stuffing, Roasted Onion, and Kale; any sentence that begin with the phrase, this may not exactly be politically correct to say, but…, any sentence that begin with the phrase, this probably isn’t appropriate for the dinner table, but…, and any joke one has to wait until certain family members leave the table before telling; homemade pumpkin, apple, and pecan pies, any plate that features two or more slices of said pie, and napping on your mother’s couch, in general.