Canon Fronsac
what:
AOC
Bordeaux, France
primarily Merlot, with Cabernet Sauvignon,
Cabernet Franc, Petit Verdot, Malbec
where:
Lock-Ober
3 Winter Place
Boston
when:
Christmastime
character:
Canon Fronsac is the Schubert of Bordeaux—that is
to say a Romantic, in the truest 19th century Viennese bohemian
composer sense of the word. Rich, full, lively and undeterably
cheerful, he is the struggling coffeehouse songwriter, turning
out some of the brightest, most joyful, and most memorable
melodies ever written, all for a small group of musician
friends to play amongst themselves. Yet given time (say,
five to ten years or so), we hear another side to Schubert—an
extravagantly experimental authenticity, and a deeper, at
times shockingly dark level of complexity. There are sonatas.
There are quartets. There are failed operas. And there are
symphonies, among the greatest ever composed, left hauntingly
unfinished. Which then, is the true Schubert (which the
true Canon Fronsac)? Why, both, of course. Troubled genius
by day, conducting a silent battle against personal demons
across pages of brutally loosed symphonic emotion; the merry
song-smith by night, greeting his many musical friends with
another convivial sing-a-long lieder. A true Romantic, he
is laughter in the darkness.
tastes like:
In youth, Schubert’s Ungarische Melodie. In maturity,
his Unfinished Eighth.
pairs nicely with:
Café Weimar pre-Volksoper, Café Weimar post-Volksoper,
and any comic opera sung in German, in between; Rum &
Tobacco Smoked Salmon, Potted Escargots Bourguignons, and
Sugar Pumpkin Gnocchi with Oxtail Stuffed Baby Squid; holiday
reservations for a family of twelve or more, oversized restaurant
dinning rooms where more than one large family holiday dinner
is in progress, and ‘The Trout’ Quintet (the
fourth movement, in particular) played above all; Sirloin
Au Poivre, Wiener Schnitzel “à la Holstein,”
and Calf’s Liver with Brown Sugar Bacon; Nächtliches
Bankett by Wolfgang Heimbach, more or less the entire
Brugel gallery at the Kunsthistorisch, and the world’s
most comfortable museum benches, at the same; quiet winter
afternoons, a comfortable coffeehouse, classical pianists
able to warm a room with music, and the welcoming and wholly
untranslatable feeling that is true Viennese Gemütlichkeit.