
Calvados
what:
French apple brandy
Lower Normandy, France
where:
The American Bar
Kärntner Straße 10
Vienna
when:
autumn
character:
Somewhere between the light cotton sweaters of September
and the winter coats of November, there is Calvados—the
copper-color fall-weight scarf of the bar. A mid-course
accessory, it is the type of thing one wears on its own
and is typically (depending on the quality of the Calvados)
rather smartly tied, imparting a slight if casual Continental
feel. This alone may keep some away, thinking it merely
a look. But Calvados is about warmth, not fashion. And once
one has experienced the comfort it imparts, the middle of
a long autumn meal, like those cool-not-quite-cold October
afternoons, will never feel the same without it.
tastes like:
The Count of Monte Cristo.
pairs nicely with:
An aperitif glass, the brief respite between the third and
fourth courses of a five-course meal, and the exact moment
one realizes that the meal in progress will be (by far)
the highlight of the day; Banquet Officers of the Civic
Guard of St. Adrian, Company of Captain Reinier
Reael, and The Laughing Cavalier, all by Frans
Hals; an early-autumn afternoon spent out of doors, the
pleasure of getting ‘back to nature,’ and the
even greater pleasures of a small, efficient, and perfectly
civilizing thermos; thick leather-bound novels involving
either wrongful imprisonment, disputed inheritances, or
swordplay (or ideally, all three); the first low afternoon
fires one makes for the sake of the pleasure rather than
necessity; reading thick leather-bound novels by a low afternoon
fire and unexpectedly getting onto a really good bit of
swordplay, any great 17th century Dutch still life featuring
an overturned goblet, and spiced-apple bread pudding.