what:
DOCG
Piedmont, Italy
100% Nebbiolo
aged at least 1 year in oak,
at least 2 years old at release

where:
Grotto
37 Bowdoin
Boston

when:
midwinter

 

character:

Barbaresco is a great tenor, unquestionably one of the two or three best tenors in the world. And perhaps it is best simply to leave it at that. For as it turns out Barbaresco would be the best tenor in the world, were it not for the presence of his neighbor, colleague, and slight but unquestionable superior, Barolo. Thus, it is the magnificent Barbaresco’s lot is to be forever mentioned alongside The Great—, and to suffer (however slightly) by the comparison. Mind you there is no questioning his individual merits: power and subtly, richness of tone, a smooth delivery, astounding range (he has been known to sing baritone on occasion), and impeccable intonation. All he lacks (all!), is the oomph, that thundering charisma of the greatest Italian tenors, that audible kick to the sternum that holds an audience to the back of their seats and leaves them gasping. If you never knew it existed, if you had never heard a top form Barolo perform, you would never miss it; and Barbaresco would be The Great, himself. As it is, he holds a most bittersweet of pedestals: that of being the second greatest tenor in the world.

tastes like:

Placido Domingo. In top form. Live.

pairs nicely with:

The decision to have that very good bottle one has been holding back, tonight; La Fenice, Opéra-Comique, and Volksoper Wien; setting one’s glass down amid the quiet murmur of pleasure; Frazier, Alydar, and Müller; being fourteen and trying to impress a seventeen year old Upper East Side debutante with one’s appreciation of opera by securing two tickets La Boheme at the Met, and leaving four acts latter without one highly un-impressed debutante but with the pleasure of having heard Placido Domingo, in top form, live; as well as silver, pearls, and Puccini.